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Ford GT40 Mk.II Holman & Moody 24H Le Mans 1966

Ford GT40 Mk.II Holman & Moody 24H Le Mans 1966

Last Two! Ford GT40 Mk.II Holman & Moody 24H Le Mans 1966 Lucien Bianchi/Mario Andretti. Brand New.

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 New JPM Piper Ferrari 250 GTO Project!
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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2012 :  13:39:48  Show Profile
Jean-Paul is finishing a small series of 250GT Breadvans and then will begin a second series of 5 Piper GTOs. This series will be very unique. See photos below. At the Reims 12 hours in 1964, during practice they tried a hood with an air intake. The result was apparently not satisfying and for the race they did roughly close the opening with some material (picture 2). The car ran the next week at Brands Hatch in the same configuration with #38. This project will include one Reims car with air intake, 2 Reims cars in race configuration, and 2 Brands Hatch cars.


Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2012 :  13:43:33  Show Profile
You can see here the main parts of the kit, the decal sheet and the very comprehensive photo-etched parts.

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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2012 :  13:45:15  Show Profile
To make the front wing openings thinner and clean them, we drill the inner side of the wings. At the same time we can clean the wheel arches.
Now it’s necessary to drill the hood’s bulge so we can adapt the photo-etched part. Once this has been shaped, we check if it does fit properly.

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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2012 :  13:47:35  Show Profile
Next step is to drill all the holes for the accessories, door handles, number lights, windscreen wipers, etc.. On the inner part of the body, holes for the screws securing the chassis to the body and the 2 holes for the front drive train.
After having cut the opening in the hood, we’ll prepare the parts for the air intake, made of plastic and brass sheets.

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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2012 :  13:51:09  Show Profile
The air intake is now finished, the last touch-up will be made once the primer coat of paint is sprayed.
Probably due to the centrifugal process of the white metal foundry, the rear right side wheel arch is slightly deformed; after adding some putty and making a pattern of the left side, it’s not too difficult to correct this, so that both wheel arches have the same shape.

Next steps in a few days with preparation of the chassis and the sanding of the bodies before painting. See you soon.


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PeterW

USA
1216 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2012 :  14:20:01  Show Profile  Visit PeterW's Homepage
I built a few of these kits and they are very well done...the ONLY thing that needs to changed are the headlight covers, they either need to be thinned from the back so they sit nearly flush or a vac form could be used instead of the white metal and accomplish the same thing.

As always I am sure JPM will make these very special and I love the special version with the hood scoop. The construction is also a nice method.

Edited by - PeterW on 04/25/2012 20:00:08
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LaSource

356 Posts

Posted - 04/26/2012 :  01:06:44  Show Profile
I love these threads!
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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 04/30/2012 :  19:25:26  Show Profile
The first photograph shows the putty touch-ups on the whole body. On the next 2 pictures, the primer coat of painting has been applied and also some putty to correct the last faults. At this stage body surface must be as smooth as possible; the next coat of paint, the green base coat is very thin and won’t hide any flaws. So a very careful sanding of the body is necessary now.


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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 04/30/2012 :  19:30:40  Show Profile
Bodies are painted now, one green base coat and one coat of varnish.
On the 3rd picture, we’ll prepare the chassis and identify them, MW for MiniWerks of course and 2/2 for the serial number.


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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 04/30/2012 :  19:41:50  Show Profile
All the parts are ready for their first coat of painting, some pieces of double face tape will hold them firmly on the painting stands.
Next step is to remove the plastic wheel spinners and to replace them with the more realistic photo etched parts. After taking them off the photo etched sheet we bend them to their characteristic angle and try not to forget there’s one left and one right side!

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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 05/02/2012 :  10:49:09  Show Profile
All interior parts have been painted now. The cloth aspect of the seats will be hand painted later and the silver parts will receive a special process to give them a less shiny and perfect appearance, this should be all right for a Pebble Beach Concours winner but not for a racing GTO of the sixties.
The exhaust system will also be slightly weathered for a more realistic effect.
While paint on bodies and parts is drying, we’ll finish another project. See you soon.

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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 05/02/2012 :  10:53:33  Show Profile

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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 05/31/2012 :  09:29:02  Show Profile
Ready to make the last touch-ups on the bodies as paint has had plenty of time to dry and harden thoroughly. Wet sanding of the last blemishes; you can see the lighter spots which will be polished in the next step.
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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 05/31/2012 :  09:30:10  Show Profile
Hand polishing to remove the sanding scratches and to get back to a glossy finish.
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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 05/31/2012 :  09:37:11  Show Profile
Final polish by machine with finishing material on a foam pad.
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Ferrarinut

USA
1489 Posts

Posted - 05/31/2012 :  09:38:29  Show Profile
Here, we'll paint all the body details, front and rear window surrounds, front and side air intakes, front light locations and inner doors.
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